In 1988, I ate my first fresh fig. It was handed to me by the person who’d grown it on the Greek island of Santorini. It was melting, succulent and with a sweet depth in that way muscovado is compared to white. It ruined me for figs for 24 years; in the years that followed, the ones I ate tasted not of luscious sunshine, but like tribute band supermarket peaches with a texture of rolled up football socks.
Fig leaves seem an exciting ingredient that has somehow slipped through my fingers. I don't encounter too many fig trees in Switzerland, but it does give me something to look forward to during my next visit to Italy...The syrup recipes sound tantalizing.
Speaking of fig trees... A chef friend in Italy once told me the sap from a broken fig branch can be used in the same way as animal rennet. I've never been able to verify this claim, though it does sound interesting and viable. Have you ever encountered this kind of use for fig sap?
That is fascinating - a quick google tells me it contains ficin which coagulates milk, but I've never tried it or heard or anyone doing so. An autumn project for sure, thank you
Ficin is an enzyme which breaks down proteins. It is used in blood typing, as are enzymes bromelin (from pineapple) and papain (from papaya). Funny how I still remember this fact from undergrad science many years ago. Another quick Google and I found that ficin is used in making cheeses and in sausage casings among other things.
Orla, this is marvellous! Thank you. I have more to go on when I have a mo to dive in and investigate. And that's very funny about remembering from many years ago - I have the same with lyrics to songs I really didn't like as a kid
Cool... Always trust the wisdom of an Italian chef... I wonder if it would also coagulate a plant-based alternative to milk... Maybe there's something there for me to investigate - now, where's the nearest fig tree?
A timely post - I was out in the Venetian lagoon learning to tell the difference between male and female figs - I wonder if that should that be 'how to sex a fig' ...
Yes Mark, I love fig leaves very much! Last year we got sweet green fruit from our tree that were one of my daughter’s very first fruits to try, but this year no sign of fruit, and no surprise there. I always infuse in custard and creams but usually fresh, I’ll try drying and toasting!
Thanks for your post Mark. I was just about to trim my Brown Turkey so instead of leaving the trimmings to compost my kitchen is now filled with the perfume of floral fudge gloriousness. I wonder what other varieties would flourish here on the edge of exmoor.
Hello Anita. If you are on the edge of Exmoor I imagine you have a long growing season but depending on your exact location maybe harsh winters. It's all about the microclimate so if Brown Turkey - one of the most reliable/hardy - is doing well, you could try Brunswick which should thrive too, or Panache if you can give it the sunniest of sheltered spots
Thanks for your kind suggestions for hardy figs Mark. I might well try Brunswick but as I find it hard to like anything variegated I will pass on Panache.
I had a quick search to see what health benefits fig leaves have and they are allegedly an aphrodisiac….so not too much at once!
Tree ripened fruit trumps all others. I had a similar peach epiphany in Phoenix a few years ago. A case of eating, slurping and wiping as I ate. Not pretty. Stone fruit season here in Western Australia, and then the month or so when you can pull in and buy figs on the roadside are highlights. And, who would think Santorini would be eclipsed by Tottenham!
I couldn't agree more about tree-ripened fruit. the first homegrown peach I ate fell from the tree as I relaxed in its shade and caught me where I'd rather it hadn't but (once I'd recovered) the flavour was incredible and more of a drink than a food
I just dried my first batch of fig leaves, and smoked them a touch with hickory, and pulsed them with sugar for biscotti 🙌 What a revelation. I think these biscuits want a sipping whiskey alongside them. Here in Oregon it's such a wait for our figs to ripen. My first batch consisted of 5, 3 for squirrels, 2 for me. Fingers crossed the numerous second round soak up our summer heat.
My fig tree is, for the first time, dripping in both leaves and fruit (not ready yet) so I can't wait to try the dried leaf recipe. Terrific idea - thank you, Mark.
Yes you are right, there is definitely a large one spilling over a fence on our walk to the park. I had no idea about the leaves and will certainly be looking to source some! Thanks for the enlightening inspiration.
Yes! Lovely fig leaves - and I feel like they are far more forgiving of poorer growing conditions than the fruit themselves perhaps? Or at least, I haven't had a bad fig leaf. I just posted a fig & fennel seed kombucha recipe last week and was thinking fig leaf syrup would be lovely in it.
Far more forgiving! Indeed, in what people might think of as excellent conditions - eg fertile soil, unrestricted roots - their energies are very likely to go to producing many leaves (at the expense of fruit). Never had a bad leaf either! Where is your amazing sounding recipe? I just looked and unless I am mistaken there is no substack from you yet
Lovely, Mark! Quite agree about shop-bought figs - haven't bothered with 'em for years. But yr news is good news...I've noticed some pretty productive olive trees round the streets of London, will now look out for figs.
Thank you Elisabeth! Figs seem to be more common in public spaces - or, more likely, I'm more sensitised to spotting them! - which gives us more foraging opportunities for fruit and leaves.
I remember those figs! Utterly beautiful, Chris is a magician, though unlike you I didn’t need convinced because I’d had my own tree growing for a while. Fig leaf really is one of the best flavours too, love the idea of dried and blitzed for sprinkling.
I'm not sure what Chris grows (I think he has moved since we visited) but I have spread my bets - Panache, a gorgeous white fruited variety, and the red fleshed Violette dauphine. Both really delicious. I can tell no difference between varieties as far as the flavour of the leaves is concerned
Fig leaves seem an exciting ingredient that has somehow slipped through my fingers. I don't encounter too many fig trees in Switzerland, but it does give me something to look forward to during my next visit to Italy...The syrup recipes sound tantalizing.
Speaking of fig trees... A chef friend in Italy once told me the sap from a broken fig branch can be used in the same way as animal rennet. I've never been able to verify this claim, though it does sound interesting and viable. Have you ever encountered this kind of use for fig sap?
That is fascinating - a quick google tells me it contains ficin which coagulates milk, but I've never tried it or heard or anyone doing so. An autumn project for sure, thank you
Ficin is an enzyme which breaks down proteins. It is used in blood typing, as are enzymes bromelin (from pineapple) and papain (from papaya). Funny how I still remember this fact from undergrad science many years ago. Another quick Google and I found that ficin is used in making cheeses and in sausage casings among other things.
Orla, this is marvellous! Thank you. I have more to go on when I have a mo to dive in and investigate. And that's very funny about remembering from many years ago - I have the same with lyrics to songs I really didn't like as a kid
Cool... Always trust the wisdom of an Italian chef... I wonder if it would also coagulate a plant-based alternative to milk... Maybe there's something there for me to investigate - now, where's the nearest fig tree?
I could envision dried fig leaves playing with horchata quite nicely.
You might be on to something there!
Thank you for the mention Mark. Our tree here is in full fruit, though we’ll have to wait a little longer to harvest.
You are very welcome. And yes, the longer we dare wait the better!
A timely post - I was out in the Venetian lagoon learning to tell the difference between male and female figs - I wonder if that should that be 'how to sex a fig' ...
You lead a very interesting life Jo Thompson…
Gorgeous post... and recipes! That book with Lia is still one of my favourites. It was a lovely launch too.
Such a joy if a book to be part of , and great memories of the launch too!
Yes Mark, I love fig leaves very much! Last year we got sweet green fruit from our tree that were one of my daughter’s very first fruits to try, but this year no sign of fruit, and no surprise there. I always infuse in custard and creams but usually fresh, I’ll try drying and toasting!
Sorry about the no fruit this year, especially now your daughter has a taste for them!
Thanks for your post Mark. I was just about to trim my Brown Turkey so instead of leaving the trimmings to compost my kitchen is now filled with the perfume of floral fudge gloriousness. I wonder what other varieties would flourish here on the edge of exmoor.
Hello Anita. If you are on the edge of Exmoor I imagine you have a long growing season but depending on your exact location maybe harsh winters. It's all about the microclimate so if Brown Turkey - one of the most reliable/hardy - is doing well, you could try Brunswick which should thrive too, or Panache if you can give it the sunniest of sheltered spots
Thanks for your kind suggestions for hardy figs Mark. I might well try Brunswick but as I find it hard to like anything variegated I will pass on Panache.
I had a quick search to see what health benefits fig leaves have and they are allegedly an aphrodisiac….so not too much at once!
Tree ripened fruit trumps all others. I had a similar peach epiphany in Phoenix a few years ago. A case of eating, slurping and wiping as I ate. Not pretty. Stone fruit season here in Western Australia, and then the month or so when you can pull in and buy figs on the roadside are highlights. And, who would think Santorini would be eclipsed by Tottenham!
I couldn't agree more about tree-ripened fruit. the first homegrown peach I ate fell from the tree as I relaxed in its shade and caught me where I'd rather it hadn't but (once I'd recovered) the flavour was incredible and more of a drink than a food
I shall be stalking the gardens of abandoned houses for elusive fig leaves , just so I can warm them in my oven, great article.
thank you...fingers crossed you find some!
I just dried my first batch of fig leaves, and smoked them a touch with hickory, and pulsed them with sugar for biscotti 🙌 What a revelation. I think these biscuits want a sipping whiskey alongside them. Here in Oregon it's such a wait for our figs to ripen. My first batch consisted of 5, 3 for squirrels, 2 for me. Fingers crossed the numerous second round soak up our summer heat.
That sounds so good with the hickory...I shall give that a try, thank you. Ad I can just imagine it with that whisky, perhaps a smoky Islay
My fig tree is, for the first time, dripping in both leaves and fruit (not ready yet) so I can't wait to try the dried leaf recipe. Terrific idea - thank you, Mark.
I hope you like it
Now I NEED a fig tree (and Lia’s allotment book)...! 💚
they are becoming more common in public spaces so keep an eye out as a source of leaves
Yes you are right, there is definitely a large one spilling over a fence on our walk to the park. I had no idea about the leaves and will certainly be looking to source some! Thanks for the enlightening inspiration.
My pleasure - happy harvesting
Yes! Lovely fig leaves - and I feel like they are far more forgiving of poorer growing conditions than the fruit themselves perhaps? Or at least, I haven't had a bad fig leaf. I just posted a fig & fennel seed kombucha recipe last week and was thinking fig leaf syrup would be lovely in it.
Far more forgiving! Indeed, in what people might think of as excellent conditions - eg fertile soil, unrestricted roots - their energies are very likely to go to producing many leaves (at the expense of fruit). Never had a bad leaf either! Where is your amazing sounding recipe? I just looked and unless I am mistaken there is no substack from you yet
No, not quite got around to substack yet! I posted that one on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/p/Cu3lFaVIrYe/
Lovely, Mark! Quite agree about shop-bought figs - haven't bothered with 'em for years. But yr news is good news...I've noticed some pretty productive olive trees round the streets of London, will now look out for figs.
Thank you Elisabeth! Figs seem to be more common in public spaces - or, more likely, I'm more sensitised to spotting them! - which gives us more foraging opportunities for fruit and leaves.
I remember those figs! Utterly beautiful, Chris is a magician, though unlike you I didn’t need convinced because I’d had my own tree growing for a while. Fig leaf really is one of the best flavours too, love the idea of dried and blitzed for sprinkling.
Always one step ahead...
I am now curious to know what the varieties that Chris and you grow, please? :)
I'm not sure what Chris grows (I think he has moved since we visited) but I have spread my bets - Panache, a gorgeous white fruited variety, and the red fleshed Violette dauphine. Both really delicious. I can tell no difference between varieties as far as the flavour of the leaves is concerned